Uniforms of all sorts are a perennial reference for Our Legacy’s creative director Christopher Nying, who likes to make us look at familiar objects in new ways. For spring he focused on reimagining the classic M15 jacket, but for fall his remit is wider. He’s now more interested in a dressed-up look, and he went about achieving it by making a sort of Richard Scarry-like inventory of sartorial stereotypes and then mixing them all together. A policeman’s blue shirt might be paired with suit pants; a tuxedo jacket with cargos. The idea, he wrote in the program notes, was “imagining a child’s idea of the uniform of a teacher, of a banker, a parent going to dinner, an office worker commuting.” He was also thinking about reactions to authority, like admiration and rebellion.
Nying prefers a gentle kind of anarchy, and maybe this is what makes OL collections look so easy and directional at once. Many of the trends we clocked on the street during the menswear shows are present here. Besides the aforementioned cargo pants (OL’s come with suspenders), there are penny loafers, to which Nying’s added a lug sole. Here, the skirt to layer over trousers is an asymmetric pleated wrap with an unfinished hem, as if cut by a child.
“Progressive prep,” is how Jockum Hallin, the CEO, dubbed the collegiate touches, which coexist with a bit of 1970s spin; note the flared legs, the longer collars on “police blue” shirts, and the heeled boots for men. There are many subtle, pleasing details throughout the collection, such as tone-on-tone tuxedo stripes on pants, a belt that looks like the waist of a pair of jeans, and corduroys with a digital jean-print. More dramatic are the thigh-high gaiters and jeans that are split up the front and filled in with an insert, which seem like a kind of metaphor for the OL m.o., which is to take things apart and build them back better.